Posts tagged: Troubleshooting

Customes remember the level of…

Customers remember the level of service they receive long after the price thay paid. This is why we deliver the highest standards of service

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Starting Generators In Cold Weather

Starting Generators In Cold Weather

Starting diesel engines during cold weather can be frustrating if engines are not properly prepared for lower temperatures. Batteries that are weak may not crank the starter motor fast enough or long enough to start a cold engine. As the temperature goes down, so does battery capacity. A battery that has all of its power available at 80 degrees F will have only about 46% available power at 0 degrees F. Plus, the engine will be 2.5 times harder to start at 0 degrees due to thicker oil and resistance to movement of internal moving parts. In effect, an engine is about five times harder to start at 0 degrees F than at 80 degrees F. Test weak or suspicious batteries under load before cold weather to help eliminate potential problems during busy times. If batteries need replacement, always replace with a battery equal to or more powerful than the original battery.

Use glow plugs or block heaters on the engine for cold weather starts. Glow plugs heat the internal combustion chamber area to suitable temperatures for combustion. Otherwise, cold fuel sprayed into the chamber and onto the glow plugs can gel and adhere to these parts. Hard starting and inefficient combustion occur with potential for damage to plugs and cylinder heads.

Use Number 1 diesel fuel in cold weather. It is more volatile than Number 2 fuel and ignites more readily under cold conditions. Keep the fuel tank full to prevent condensation inside the tank. Water from condensation can freeze and plug fuel lines from the tank to the engine. Add winter diesel fuel additive to the fuel to lower the possibility of gelling and improve starting.

Store engines inside tool sheds, barns, garages or other suitable locations that are heated or warmer than outside temperatures. Only a few degrees warmer temperature can make starting faster and easier. The warmer the battery is, the more power it can provide to the starter motor to crank the engine.  Many people remove their battery and store indoors until needed.  The warmer the engine oil is, the thinner it will be and have less resistance to moving engine parts. Make sure you are using the proper viscosity oil recommended for your engine for cold temperatures. If you cannot store engines inside or in a heated area, install a block heater on the engine. To save time and electricity, put the block heater on an electrical timer set to come on a couple of hours before you plan to start the engine.

If you suspect fuel has gelled from cold temperatures, change the fuel filter and warm the fuel (wait for the outside temperature to rise, use a block heater or put the generator inside a heated area) before attempting to start the engine. Gelled fuel in the filter can block the flow of fuel from the tank to the injector pump.

After starting the engine on a cold day, allow the engine to warm up a few minutes before putting a load on it. Proper engine operation temperatures assure more efficient fuel combustion and may prevent damage to cold engine parts. Engine oil flows more readily at operating temperatures and allows proper lubrication of upper engine parts and areas.

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Quick Startup Guide

Aurora Generators Inc.

Quick Start-up Guide | Reference Manual

AGI4000DE
AGI6800DE
AGI6800SDE

Silent Diesel Generator - Black

The quick start reference covers most important information on your generator. Please read it carefully before you operate your generator. For more detailed information please refer to our website

overview1

186side-1

side view

top view of engine

Starting your generator for the first time.

  1. Use your generator outdoors only. Insure proper ventilation and keep it dry.
  2. Check your battery  acid level and fill it if required. Maintenance free batteries require no filling.
  3. Fully charge the battery before using it.  (do not charge or boot battery while connected to generator)
  4. Fill engine with oil to level shown on oil dip stick.  We suggest using regular diesel motor oil 5w40 for the first 25 hour break in period only. Then only use synthetic diesel motor oil.  (Never use engine oil for gasoline engines)
  5. Fill fuel tank with diesel automotive fuel only. Do not overfill tank and make sure all fuel valves are open.
  6. Remove the rubber fuel line from the fuel pump and let fuel bleed out into a container until all air is removed from the lines and fuel filter.
  7. Connect fully charged battery to your generator.
  8. Make sure there is no load connected to your generator or turn main breaker off before starting or turning off your generator.
  9. Insure the throttle lever is locked into the run position.
  10. In cold weather turn the ignition key to the to the “heat” position for about 20 seconds then clockwise to crank the engine. Release the key when the engine starts. If you are having difficulty starting below freezing consider cranking the engine after the decompression leaver on top of the engine has been held open for a moment to help the engine crank faster. Release decompression leaver and engine should have built up enough momentum to assist in starting.
  11. If engine does not start, wait until start cools down before trying again. Watch this video on Bleeding Air out of your fuel lines
  12. The remote control should only be used after the engine has successfully started using the key switch method above.

charging-system

Manual Starting

  1. Open the fuel cock
  2. Pull the engine speed lever to the “run” position
  3. Hold the starting handle loosely…
    Pull the starting handle slowly….until you feel resistance.. then return it slowly
  4. Push the decompression leaver down and release
  5. Hold the starting handle firmly.. Pull hard and fast all the way out.

how to manual start a diesel engine

Generator Break In Period

All engines require some kind of break-in period. Current technology provides the means of manufacturing engine parts with unimaginable precision but they still fall short of achieving the near perfect fit that a proper break-in will provide. “Break-in,” for the most part, is the allowance of the machined cylinder and ring surfaces to conform to each other’s shape during engine operation. This conforming or “mating” of ring and cylinder surfaces is the ultimate goal of a proper break-in. “Mating” these two specific parts will produce a very tight seal in each cylinder. A tight seal is very important because it prevents the escape of unburned fuel and pressurized gasses into the crankcase, while further preventing crankcase oil from entering the cylinder above the top compression ring.

Break-in can occur in the first 100 hours of use. The first 20 are critical and will determine how long your engine will last and run in the future. Avoid heavy loading as it introduces more fuel into the combustion chamber, increases the amount of heat generated and will promote any existing blow by oil to flash burn and glaze to the cylinder walls. This glaze will build up and result in a poor seal.    Under loading on the other hand is also bad for the engine. Decreased combustion chamber pressures cause piston rings to not seal as well and to hydroplane or skip over the oil film leaving behind trace amounts that will also burn and glaze to the cylinder walls.

Remember that during the break-in period there is more friction from surfaces mating to each other. Watch for overheating and dirty oil filters.

Synthetic motor oil intended for diesel engines ONLY should be used after the break in period.  The more often you can change  your oil the longer your engine will last.

After your break in period remember Diesels are designed to work, and in many cases, they operate best under a load.

Maintenance Schedule

Items / Intervals Every Day 20 Hours 50 Hours 100 Hours 200 Hours 500 Hours 1000 Hours
Check all nuts and bolts
Check & Refill Engine Oil
Replace Engine Oil

(first time)

(second time)

Replace Oil Filter

(clean)

(clean)

(replace)

Check For Oil Leakage
Replace Air Filter
Clean / Replace Fuel Filter

(replace)

Check Fuel Injector
Check Fuel Injection Pump
Adjust clearance of intake / exhaust valves
Replace Piston Rings

*These are minimum guidelines that must be followed.  If you are using your generator in harsh conditions or for per-longed periods of them additional maintenance may be required.

Generator Overview

Generator Specifications

Item Model 4000DE 6800DE 6800SDE
Generator Generator Type Brushless, 2-Pole, single Phase
Excitation Self-Excitation voltage
Voltage Regulator Capacitor ( Brushless Alternator ) AVR ( Brush Alternator
Frequency 60 Hz ( Available in 50 Hz)
Maximum Output 4000 Watts 6500 Watts 6500 Watts
Rated Output 3500 Watts 5500 Watts 5500 Watts
Rated Amps 29 @ 120 Volts
14.5 @ 240 Volts
8.3 @ 12 Volts
46 @ 120 Volts
23 @ 240 Volts
8.3 @ 12 Volts
46 @ 120 Volts
23 @ 240 Volts
8.3 @ 12 Volts
Power Factor 1.0
Noise Level 80 db 87 db 70 db
Insulation Class B B B
Engine Engine Type 4 Stroke, Air Cooled, Single Cylinder OHF
Engine Model Aurora 178 Aurora 186 Aurora 186
Bore x Stroke 3.07″ x 2.44″ 3.39″ x 2.83″ 3.39″ x 2.83″
Displacement (in3) 18.1 25.5 25.5
Max Output (HP) 5.9 9.3 9.3
Rated Output (HP) 6.6 10.3 10.3
Fuel Type Diesel Diesel Diesel
Lube Oil Capacity 27.1 oz 39.9 oz 39.9 oz
Fuel Tank Capacity 3.3 gallons 3.3 gallons 3.9 gallons
Continuous Operation @ Half Load 12 Hours
Ignition System T.C.I. T.C.I. T.C.I.
Starting System Recoil Starter + Electric Recoil Starter + Electric Electric
Compression Ratio 19:1 19:1 19:1
Lube Oil Type SAE15W40 Synthetic Diesel Engine Oil Only
Dry Weight (lb) 84 117 117
Dimensions L x W x H 15.1 x 16.6 x 17.7 16.4 x 17.4 x 19.5 16.4 x 17.4 x 19.5
Electrical
Outlets
NEMA Rating 2 x NEMA 5-20R 120 Volt @ 20 amps
1 x NEMA L5-30R 120 Volt @ 30 amp
1 x NEMA L14-30R 120 / 240 Volt @ 30 amp
1 x DC12V @ 8.3 amp
Weight Net Weight (lbs) 212 263 352
Dimensions Product L x W x H 27.2 x 18.5 x 21.9 29.1 x 19.7 x 23.2 36.2 x 20.9 x 27.8
Carton L x W x H 28.2 x 19.1 x 23.4 30 x 20.5 x 23.8 37.2 x 21.5 x 29.0
Operating
Parameters
Maximum Elevation 3000 Feet 3000 Feet 3000 Feet
Maximum Relative Humidity 60% @ 68 F
90% @ 104 F

Applying a load to your generator

  1. Safety First, insure proper grounding and isolation from any other power source.
  2. Never connect your generator directly to your home. A properly installed generator transfer switch must be used or plug in your devices directly to  your generator.
  3. Never start of shut off the engine with a load connected to the generator. Switch the generator main breaker to OFF or disconnect all connections first.
  4. Keep your generator clean and dry.

Silent Diesel Generator Panel

You have a two pole alternator / generator.  This means it has two windings or outputs that each supply 120 volts.

Alternator Connections

The voltage switch on the panel changes how the two outputs are connected to your electrical outlets so you can get different voltages. 120 or 240 volts. In series you can get 240 volts  and in parallel you can get 120 volts but TWICE the power because you are using two supplies tied together.

The two windings are called “R” and “L”  Lets just call it Left and Right.  Left has two connections 1 and 2  same with Right, 1 and 2

Alternator Windings

What is important to remember is that you can either use the generator set to 120 volts and get the maximum power out of the 120 volt outlets or if you need 240 volts switch it to 240 v0lts but you can only get now half the power on each 120 volt output on the larger L14-30 Outlet .

You can download the complete generator wiring diagram –>here<–

Using The Remote Control

Generator Remote Control

Most Aurora Portable Diesel Generators include an installed remote control.  This remote lets you start and stop your generator without using a key.  The purpose is not so you can operate your generator unattended, indoors or be left outside in the rain.

Do not use the key switch when using the remote control.  Do not start with one and turn off with the other.   If you forget your key in the on position and turn off with the remote for example then there are things left on that will drain the battery or even burn out.

When using the remote you should remove the key and do not use both at the same time.

The receiver is always on and using generator battery power so it can listen for signal and turn on your generator. It will slowly drain your battery.  Either exercise your generator on a regular basis to recharge the battery or disconnect the receiver by unplugging it during storage. It is installed and held in place by a magnet so it can easily be removed.  Also check your key chain battery on a regular basis and replace as necessary.

You can purchase an optional second channel remote. The second channel and second set of buttons let you control the glow plug and engine pre heating feature without using a key.  Pressing the on button will energize the glow plug for 25 seconds then attempt to start your engine.  This makes starting easier in cold weather.

Without this option you should use the key switch to preheat and start your generator.

Starting in cold weather

Diesel fuel can gel in cold weather. It will not vaporize as easily and when injected into a cold engine it can also gel as it hits the cold cylinder walls making starting difficult.  Here are a few ways to start under difficult conditions.

  • Try and keep your generator battery charged and warm. Try keeping it indoors and or warm and charged so it is ready to use when needed.
  • Keep your engine warm with a block heater.
  • Take advantage of the glow plug.  Let it preheat the air before trying to start.
  • Use the decompression leaver.  Keep it open and let engine crank at full speed before releasing it.

Aurora portable diesel engines are fitted with a decompression lever. The decompression leaver enables the user to start the engine easier when it is extremely cold, when the battery is low or when bleeding the fuel system.

USE CAUTION

THE DECOMPRESSION LEVER MUST NOT BE USED TO STOP THE ENGINE EXCEPT IN EMERGENCY SITUATIONS SUCH AS RUN AWAY ENGINE OR THROTTLE DAMAGE, AS SERIOUS DAMAGE CAN BE DONE TO THE EXHAUST VALVES.

When the battery is weak or starting in extremely cold weather:

1. Pull decompression lever to release position and hold
2. Turn ignition switch to the heat postion for 20 seconds
3. Crank engine
4. After 3 to 5 seconds, when the engine has gained momentum, return decompression lever to its original position. Engine should now start.

If you require further assistance

If you require further assistance please see our other articles posted on our website.

If you require further assistance please email us first SUPPORT@EmergencyPower.com
We can often respond to your e-mail within a few minutes and will call if necessary. ( Don’t forget to include your phone number )

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When Portable Diesel Generators Will Not Start

What to do when you can’t start a portable diesel generator.

Diesel engines are very simple machines. When they fail it is often a fuel problem.  Less common is some mechanical engine failure that has resulted in a loss of compression. Loss of compression can be caused by a cracked engine, broken valve, warn piston rings or more commonly just some valves out of adjustment and that is easily fixed.

First here is what  you should check if you are using a single cylinder Yanmar type diesel engine.  Also be sure to watch our video for a more detailed look

  • Use diesel motor oil only. 15w40.  Do not use motor oil for gasoline vehicles.  You will cause engine damage.
  • Use regular automotive diesel fuel.  Other fuel type have a different flash point and may cause you problems.
  • Keep in mind that very cold fuel will gel and clog up fuel lines and filters.
  • Make sure you are under 3000 feet elevation. Air density is about 10% less at 3000 feet and it will be hard to start your diesel.
  • Battery must be charged.  Slow cranking results in to little heat and compression to ignite air fuel mixture.
  • Throttle should be in the run position.  Inside the engine it is connected to the fuel pump and closes a valve causing no fuel to enter the pump

Throttle1

  • Another common reason for the pump not to work is because you ran out of fuel and air reached the pump. It can not pass air, only fuel. Air must be removed from the fuel lines all the way from the fuel filter and all the way to the fuel pump. You can do this by removing the hose at the pump and letting the fuel flow free into a container until all air is removed.  Air in your fuel lines is the most common cause of failure. It will also happen every time you let the generator run out of fuel. Trucks have the same problem. Just pull off the rubber hose and let the fuel drain out into some container until all the air is removed.
  • If no fuel is flowing with the hose removed check that all fuel valves are open. There may be a valve on on the fuel filter and under the fuel tank.
  • Some fuel lines from the tank may be too long or too short and either trapping air in a high spot that reaches the pump after a few minutes or kinking the fuel line preventing fuel from flowing down to the pump.  It works up to this point by gravity only.
  • Check the electric fuel valve mounted on the fuel pump if you have one.  It has one wire going to it and when it has no power the fuel passage way is closed.  Power is turned off to this valve when there is low oil pressure or you turn the key or remote off. There should also be fuse in line with it. It is controlled by a circuit board that may have failed but unlikely. This is how most engines are turned off. Just take power away from the switch and the fuel supply stops.  Often this valve will get stuck or may burn out if you left the key on when it was not running. You can unscrew it and remove the only two parts. A sparing and a plunger.  After doing this the only way to turn off the engine is to shut off the fuel supply and that is done by releasing the throttle. (Normally it is locked in the run position)

Electric Fuel Switch

  • To confirm your fuel pump is working, loosen the metal fuel line. When you crank, fuel should start running out. It is not gushing, its between running and dripping. If you are not sure then it is easier to remove the fuel injector with the lines still connected and watch for fuel spray when cranking. (Protect your eyes and fingers. It is under high pressure.)  Also check that the fuel injector sprays in all directions the same.

If fuel is not the issue then you should check the rocker arms and valve adjustment screws. Many people neglect doing required valve adjustments resulting in engine failure.  The valve lifters and push rods are mechanical not hydraulic  like on cars today. As they ware the play increases and valves don’t open as much as they should resulting in hard starting, smoke and in advanced stages knocking and engine damage.  What happens is the rocker arms rather then making contact with parts they should be moving they work like hammers and eventually break off an adjustment screw.

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